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How to Grow Shiitake WR 50–75F Mushrooms (Lentinula edodes)

How to Grow Shiitake WR 50–75F Mushrooms (Lentinula edodes)

Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) are grown by inoculating sterilized grain with liquid culture to build a grain spawn, then transferring that grain spawn into supplemented hardwood sawdust blocks and fruiting at 50–75°F after a full brown-film maturation period. This strain requires the block to pass through complete white colonization and then develop a leathery brown skin on its surface before any fruiting trigger is applied — blocks that skip this stage will not pin reliably.

Shiitake WR 50–75F Mushrooms (Lentinula edodes): Indoor Supplemented Sawdust Blocks

Shiitake WR 50–75F Mushroom Equipment — Indoor Sawdust Block Method

Item Specification
Mushroom grow bags Large, with 0.2-micron filter patch — e.g. XLST bags
Grain bags or jars Quart jars or polypropylene bags with self-healing injection port and filter patch
Pressure cooker Minimum 23-qt capacity; must reach 15 PSI
Liquid culture syringe Shiitake WR 50–75F — see Step 1 for link
Hardwood sawdust pellets Oak or mixed hardwood fuel pellets — widely available at farm stores
Wheat bran Standard whole wheat bran from a farm or feed store
Gypsum (calcium sulfate) Agricultural or food-grade
Rye berries or wheat For grain spawn — 1 lb dry per bag
Still-air box or flow hood For inoculation; glove box acceptable for home growers
Isopropyl alcohol (70%) For surface sterilization and syringe needle flame-sterilization
Thermometer For monitoring colonization and fruiting temps
Hygrometer For monitoring RH during fruiting; target 90–100% during pin set
Step 1 Prepare and Sterilize Grain Spawn
What You Need
  • 1 lb dry rye berries or whole wheat (yields ~2 lbs hydrated)
  • Water for soaking and simmering
  • Polypropylene grain bags with filter patch and self-healing injection port, or quart mason jars with modified lids
  • Pressure cooker at 15 PSI

Scale-up: 3 lbs dry grain → 3 bags | 5 lbs dry grain → 5 bags

What To Do

Rinse the rye berries under cold water until the water runs mostly clear, then submerge them fully in clean water and soak for 12–18 hours at room temperature. After soaking, drain and transfer to a pot, cover with fresh water, and simmer over medium heat for 15–20 minutes until the kernels have swollen and softened throughout but still hold their shape without splitting open. Drain immediately and spread in a thin layer on a clean towel or sheet tray. Allow the grain to surface-dry until the outsides feel dry to the touch — moist inside, dry outside. Load bags to roughly two-thirds full or fill quart jars to about three inches below the rim, then seal bags by folding and heat-sealing above the filter patch. Pressure-cook at 15 PSI for 90–120 minutes. Allow to cool completely to room temperature — this takes 4–8 hours — before touching the injection port.

Out-Grow sells ready-to-inoculate sterilized grain bags if you want to skip this step: sterilized grain bags.

→ Ready for Step 2 when the bag or jar is fully cooled and the grain feels dry and loose inside with no residual warmth.
Step 2 Inoculate Grain with Liquid Culture
What You Need
What To Do

Work inside a still-air box or at a flow hood. Wipe down all surfaces with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Flame-sterilize the needle until it glows red, let it cool for 10–15 seconds, then wipe with an alcohol swab. Insert the needle through the self-healing injection port and inject 3–5 cc of Shiitake WR 50–75F (Lentinula edodes) liquid culture per 1-lb bag. If using mason jars with modified lids, inject through the self-healing port in the same manner. Gently agitate the bag after injection to distribute the liquid culture throughout the grain surface. Shake or roll the bag to mix.

→ Ready for Step 3 when inoculation is complete and the bag is sealed and at room temperature.
Start with this culture — Lentinula edodes
Step 3 Colonize Grain Spawn
What You Need
  • Inoculated grain bags from Step 2
  • Colonization space holding 68–75°F
What To Do

Place inoculated bags in a dark or low-light area holding 68–75°F. Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) will colonize grain more slowly than many other species — expect 3–5 weeks to full colonization at optimal temperature. At 60–65°F the process extends noticeably; below 50°F it stalls. Shake or knead the bags once when colonization is roughly 30–40% complete to redistribute mycelium, then leave undisturbed until the grain is fully white throughout. Do not open the bags at any point during grain colonization.

→ Ready for Step 4 when the grain is uniformly white with no visible uncolonized brown kernels and the bag smells clean and mushroom-like.
Step 4 Mix and Prepare Hardwood Sawdust Blocks
What You Need — Single Block (5 lb)
  • 4 lbs hardwood sawdust pellets (oak or mixed hardwood)
  • ¾ lb wheat bran
  • ¼ lb gypsum (calcium sulfate)
  • 5½ cups water (add gradually)
  • Large mixing tub
  • Large mushroom grow bags with 0.2-micron filter patch
  • Pressure cooker at 15 PSI

Scale-up: 3 blocks → multiply all ingredients by 3 | 5 blocks → multiply by 5

What To Do

Pour the hardwood sawdust pellets into a large tub and add the wheat bran and gypsum. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly until the bran is evenly distributed throughout the sawdust. Add the water gradually in several additions, mixing between each addition, until the substrate is uniformly moist — at field capacity, squeezing a firm handful should produce just one or two drops. If the substrate feels dry and crumbly, add water in small amounts. Load the mushroom substrate into grow bags, leaving 3–4 inches of headspace, then fold and heat-seal the bag above the filter patch. Sterilize at 15 PSI for 2.5–3 hours for large 5-lb blocks. Allow to cool completely — 8–12 hours is typical for large blocks — before opening.

Out-Grow also carries ready-to-use wood-based mushroom substrate bags if you want to skip mixing and sterilizing.

→ Ready for Step 5 when the mushroom substrate block has cooled completely to room temperature with no warmth detectable by pressing the outside of the bag.
Step 5 Transfer Grain Spawn into Sawdust Blocks
What You Need
  • Fully colonized grain spawn bags from Step 3 (1 lb colonized grain per 5-lb substrate block)
  • Cooled and sterilized sawdust blocks from Step 4
  • Still-air box or flow hood
  • Isopropyl alcohol (70%) wipes
What To Do

Work inside a still-air box or at a flow hood. Wipe surfaces with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Before opening, break the colonized grain spawn down fully inside the bag — squeeze and knead the exterior until all grain pieces have separated from one another and no large clumps remain. Open the grain bag and the substrate block in your clean environment. Distribute the broken grain spawn evenly across the entire surface of the mushroom substrate before mixing — avoid dumping all of it in one spot. Fold the grain into the substrate until no visible isolated clumps of grain remain unmixed. Reseal the block bag above the filter patch. The spawn rate is approximately 10–20% grain by weight relative to the substrate.

→ Ready for Step 6 when the grain spawn is fully and evenly mixed throughout the sawdust mushroom substrate and the bag is resealed.
Step 6 Colonize and Brown-Film Maturation
What You Need
  • Inoculated sawdust blocks from Step 5
  • Space holding 68–75°F for colonization
  • 8–12 weeks total for full colonization plus brown-film development
What To Do

Place inoculated blocks in a 68–75°F environment. Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) colonize sawdust slowly — expect 4–8 weeks for the block interior to turn uniformly white. Keep bags sealed and undisturbed throughout the spawn run (colonization). Once the block is fully white throughout, maintain the same temperature for an additional 2–4 weeks while a continuous brown skin develops across the block's outer surface. This brown film (sometimes called "browning" or "skinning over") is not contamination — it is a required developmental stage that indicates the block has matured enough to fruit. Do not apply any fruiting trigger until the brown film covers most of the block surface and feels leathery or slightly firm to the touch through the bag wall.

→ Ready for Step 7 when the block is uniformly white throughout and covered with a leathery, continuous brown skin on its outer surface.
Step 7 Fruiting Trigger and Pin Set
What You Need
  • Fully brown-filmed shiitake (Lentinula edodes) blocks from Step 6
  • Fruiting space or fruiting chamber holding 55–65°F
  • Hygrometer — target 90–100% RH for the first 3–4 days of pin set
  • Fresh air exchange (FAE) — CO₂ must stay below 1,200 ppm during pinning
  • Ambient light — enough to read comfortably (roughly 50–100 lux)
What To Do

Remove the blocks from the colonization area and transfer to a fruiting environment. For Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes), drop the ambient temperature to 55–65°F — a drop of 10–20°F from colonization temperature is effective for triggering pins. Open or cut the bag to expose the brown-filmed block surface. Some growers cold-shock blocks by placing them in a 45–50°F environment for 12–24 hours first, then moving them to the fruiting space at 55–65°F. Maintain 90–100% relative humidity for the first 3–4 days by misting the walls and floor of your fruiting chamber 2–3 times daily — do not spray the block surface directly at this stage. Ensure consistent fresh air exchange: fan or vent the chamber to keep CO₂ below 1,200 ppm. Provide 50–100 lux of light for at least 8 hours per day. Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom (Lentinula edodes) pins will appear as small, dark-tan to brown nodules emerging from the block surface within 6–14 days.

→ Ready for Step 8 when small brown pins are clearly visible across the block surface, typically 0.1–0.3 inch tall.
Step 8 Fruit Development and Harvest
What You Need
  • Fruiting chamber holding 55–70°F and 85–95% RH
  • Clean scissors or a sharp knife for harvesting
What To Do

Once pins form, maintain 55–70°F and 85–95% RH throughout fruiting development. Reduce humidity slightly from the pin-set target as caps develop — running 90–95% RH is sufficient and reduces the risk of bacterial surface issues. Continue fresh air exchange to keep CO₂ below 1,200 ppm; elevated CO₂ during development produces long, thin stems and poor cap size. Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) typically develop from visible pins to harvest in 5–10 days at 55–65°F. Harvest when the cap margins are still slightly in-rolled and the partial veil has just broken from the cap edge — do not wait for caps to flatten fully. Cut each shiitake mushroom (Lentinula edodes) at the base of the stem using clean scissors or a knife. Twisting can pull substrate chunks from the block and slow subsequent flushes. Harvest the entire flush within a short window once caps begin maturing.

→ Ready for Step 9 when the entire flush has been harvested and no uncut mature shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms remain on the block.
Step 9 Rest, Rehydrate, and Second Flush
What You Need
  • Harvested shiitake (Lentinula edodes) block
  • Clean water at 50–60°F for rehydration soak
  • 10–21 days rest period between flushes
What To Do

After the first harvest, remove any small pin stubs from the block surface with clean hands. Allow the block to rest in a lower-humidity environment at 55–65°F for 10–14 days. To rehydrate the block before the second flush, submerge it fully in clean water at 50–60°F for 8–12 hours, then drain and return it to fruiting conditions. Apply the same fruiting trigger protocol from Step 7 — drop temperature by 10–20°F and raise humidity to 90–100% for 3–4 days. Second flushes on Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom (Lentinula edodes) blocks are typically smaller than the first. Blocks showing no new primordia (pinning sites) after a full rest and rehydration cycle, or blocks that are visibly light, dry, and heavily degraded in structure, have reached the end of their productive life and should be discarded.

→ A productive second flush is complete when all caps are harvested and the block is again resting. Blocks commonly produce 2–3 productive flushes total before yields drop below practical levels.
The outdoor log method produces shiitake mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) over multiple seasons from a single set of inoculated logs using natural rainfall and temperature cycles rather than a controlled fruiting room — it is best suited to growers who have access to fresh-cut hardwood logs and live in a climate where temperatures regularly fall within the WR 50–75F range during spring and fall.

How to Grow Shiitake WR 50–75F Mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) on Outdoor Logs

Shiitake WR 50–75F Mushroom Equipment — Outdoor Log Method

Item Specification
Freshly cut hardwood logs Oak preferred; 6–10 inch diameter, 3–4 ft long; cut within the past 2–4 weeks
Grain spawn (colonized) Colonized WR 50–75F grain spawn; produced from liquid culture syringe via Steps 1–3 above
Power drill with 5/16-inch bit For drilling inoculation holes
Cheese wax or grafting wax To seal inoculation holes after spawn is inserted
Small paintbrush or wax dauber For applying melted wax
Log inoculation tool or dowel To pack spawn into holes
Shade cloth or natural shade area 50–70% shade during colonization; avoid direct sun
Step 1 Select and Prepare Logs for Shiitake Mushroom Cultivation
What You Need
  • Fresh-cut oak or mixed hardwood logs: 6–10 inch diameter, 3–4 ft long
  • Logs should be cut within the past 2–4 weeks — not dried out, not freshly cut that same day
What To Do

Select logs cut from healthy oak trees — avoid softwoods such as pine and cedar, which contain resins that inhibit Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom (Lentinula edodes) mycelial growth. Logs should be fresh enough to retain moisture in the wood but aged enough that any natural antifungal compounds in the cambium layer have dissipated — 1–3 weeks post-cut is ideal. Do not use logs with visible mold growth, signs of rot, or bark that is peeling. Cut ends should be smooth. Store logs off the ground in a shaded area until ready to inoculate.

→ Ready for Step 2 when logs are cool, the bark is intact, and cut ends show no active mold or decay.
Step 2 Drill and Inoculate Logs with Shiitake Mushroom Spawn
What You Need
  • Power drill with 5/16-inch bit
  • Colonized WR 50–75F grain spawn (from Steps 1–3 of Method 1)
  • Cheese wax, melted in a small pot
  • Paintbrush for wax application
What To Do

Drill holes in a diamond or offset pattern along the length of each log — holes should be spaced approximately 4–6 inches apart in rows running along the grain, with each row offset by 2–3 inches laterally. Pack colonized Shiitake WR 50–75F grain spawn firmly into each hole using a dowel or inoculation tool, filling to just below the bark surface. Immediately seal each hole with melted cheese wax using a brush or dauber, covering the spawn completely to prevent drying and to block competing molds. Seal both cut ends of each log with a generous wax coat as well. Work methodically from one end of the log to the other.

→ Ready for Step 3 when all holes are packed with Shiitake WR 50–75F grain spawn and fully sealed with wax, and both log ends are waxed.
Step 3 Log Colonization — Spawn Run
What You Need
  • Inoculated logs from Step 2
  • Shaded outdoor location with 50–70% shade
  • 6–18 months colonization time depending on log diameter and ambient temperatures
What To Do

Stack or lean inoculated logs off the ground in a shaded location — under a canopy of trees or beneath a shade cloth works well. Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) require log temperatures between 50–86°F during the spawn run; avoid locations where logs could exceed 86°F in summer. The WR 50–75F strain performs well in ambient temperatures that regularly dip into its lower range during spring and fall. Check log moisture regularly — logs should feel heavy and damp but not waterlogged. If logs dry out significantly during dry periods, water them by soaking for 8–12 hours or hosing them down thoroughly. A continuous white mycelium will be visible at cut ends and sometimes under loose bark after several months of active colonization.

→ Ready for Step 4 when white mycelium is visible at the log ends and the log has been colonizing for at least 6 months, or up to 18 months for large-diameter logs.
Step 4 Force Fruit or Allow Natural Fruiting
What You Need
  • Fully colonized logs from Step 3
  • Clean water source for soaking (if force-fruiting)
  • Container large enough to fully submerge a log, or a garden hose for outdoor soaking
What To Do

Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) on outdoor logs will fruit naturally when conditions enter the 50–75°F fruiting range — typically spring and fall. To force a flush at any point, fully submerge the log in cold water for 12–24 hours, then return it to its shaded resting position. This cold-water soak mimics a natural rain event and temperature drop, triggering primordia formation. Pins should appear within 6–14 days of soaking. Logs can be force-fruited every 6–8 weeks once fully colonized. Allow logs to rest at least 6–8 weeks between forced flushes to recover. During natural seasonal conditions, simply monitor for pin emergence after rains and temperature drops.

→ Ready for Step 5 when small brown Shiitake WR 50–75F pins are visible across the log surface, 0.1–0.3 inches tall.
Step 5 Harvest Shiitake Mushrooms from Logs
What You Need
  • Clean knife or scissors
What To Do

Harvest each Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom (Lentinula edodes) when the cap margin is still slightly in-rolled and the partial veil has just separated from the cap edge — do not wait for caps to flatten completely. Cut at the base of the stem with a clean knife, leaving the stub as small as possible to minimize damage to the log surface. After the flush is complete, allow the log to rest in its shaded resting position. Productive outdoor logs typically fruit for 3–5 years before yields decline significantly.

→ Harvest is complete when all mature Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms have been cut from the log and no further caps are developing from the current flush.

Shiitake WR 50–75F Mushroom (Lentinula edodes) Troubleshooting

The most common failure in shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom cultivation is attempting to trigger fruiting before the block has fully browned. Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) require two distinct colonization stages — a white mycelial stage and a subsequent brown-film maturation stage — before the block is physiologically ready to pin. Growers who apply a fruiting trigger the moment the block turns white, before any brown skin has formed, will typically see no pinning response. If a block that has been moved to fruiting conditions shows no pins after 14 days, return it to 68–75°F colonization conditions and continue holding until the brown film develops fully, then re-apply the trigger. The entire mushroom cultivation process from liquid culture inoculation to first harvest typically runs 10–14 weeks on indoor blocks at optimal temperature.

Contamination in shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom cultivation most commonly appears as green mold (Trichoderma) emerging from grain spawn bags or sawdust blocks. Trichoderma starts as bright white mycelium that quickly develops emerald-green sporulating patches — it contrasts clearly with the uniform cottony-white or brown-filmed surface of healthy Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom (Lentinula edodes) mycelium. Any block or grain bag that shows green patches should be removed immediately from the cultivation area, sealed in a bag, and discarded. Trichoderma contamination during grain sterilization typically points to insufficient sterilization time or temperature — confirm that your pressure cooker reaches 15 PSI and holds it for the full 90–120 minutes. Bacterial contamination presents as slimy, yellow or tan, sour-smelling areas on grain; this usually indicates over-hydrated grain or compromised sterile technique during inoculation of the liquid culture. Penicillium and Aspergillus appear as blue-green to black powdery colonies on exposed surfaces or filter patches. A cloudy liquid culture syringe with no visible mycelial clumps, or a broth that has yellowed, indicates a degenerate or contaminated liquid culture — do not use it for mushroom spawn inoculation.

Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom pinning failures after a proper brown-film stage almost always trace back to three variables: insufficient humidity during the first 3–4 days of the fruiting trigger (keep relative humidity at 90–100% during initial pin set), CO₂ that is too high during pin development (above 1,200 ppm causes long, thin stems and poor pin set — increase fresh air exchange), and inadequate temperature drop (ensure at least a 10°F drop from colonization temperature into the 55–65°F fruiting range). Mushrooms that crack or develop tough texture are typically fruiting in humidity below 85% or with significant temperature fluctuations — stabilize both, and harvest before caps flatten fully. Blocks that produce a single good flush then mold before a second flush often suffered surface damage at harvest from twisting; always cut shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms cleanly at the stem base and allow the block to dry slightly before the rest period begins. Refer to the mushroom substrate and liquid culture details above when scaling up grain spawn and mushroom substrate for larger grows.

Shop hardwood mushroom substrate at Out-Grow.

How to Grow Lentinula edodes

Questions and Answers About Lentinula edodes Cultivation

Q. How many cc of liquid culture do I inject per shiitake WR 50–75F grain spawn bag?

A. For Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom (Lentinula edodes) grain spawn bags, inject 3–5 cc of liquid culture per 1-lb grain bag. This volume gives the liquid culture mycelium a strong start without over-inoculating, which can encourage bacterial contamination from excess moisture. Use a flame-sterilized needle and inject through a self-healing injection port in your grain bag. For quart mason jars, 2–3 cc is sufficient. Always confirm your liquid culture shows healthy mycelial clumps and clear to slightly cloudy broth before using it for mushroom cultivation — cloudy broth with no clumps or any discoloration indicates contamination.

Q. Why won't my shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms pin after colonization?

A. The most common reason Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) fail to pin is that the fruiting trigger was applied before the block completed its brown-film maturation stage. Shiitake WR 50–75F mycelium must first colonize the block fully white, then develop a leathery brown skin on the exterior surface before the block is ready to fruit. Attempting a temperature drop and humidity increase on a block that is still white, or only partially browned, almost never produces pins. Return the block to 68–75°F colonization conditions until the brown film is continuous and firm, then re-apply the trigger. If the block has fully browned and still does not pin, check that the temperature has dropped at least 10°F from colonization temperature, that relative humidity is reaching 90–100% during the first 3–4 days of the trigger period, and that CO₂ is not exceeding 1,200 ppm due to insufficient fresh air exchange.

Q. What is the best mushroom substrate recipe for growing shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms indoors?

A. The most reliable mushroom substrate for indoor Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom (Lentinula edodes) cultivation is a supplemented hardwood sawdust block: 4 lbs hardwood sawdust pellets (oak or mixed hardwood), ¾ lb wheat bran, and ¼ lb gypsum, hydrated to field capacity with approximately 5½ cups of water for a single 5-lb block. This mushroom substrate provides the nitrogen supplementation shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms need for high biological efficiency without pushing supplementation so high that contamination pressure increases unmanageably. Avoid softwood sawdust — pine and cedar contain resins that inhibit Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom mycelial growth. Sterilize all mushroom substrate at 15 PSI for at least 2.5 hours for large blocks. Out-Grow's wood-based mushroom substrate bags are a ready-to-inoculate alternative.

Q. How many flushes can I expect from a shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom grow bag?

A. Indoor Shiitake WR 50–75F mushroom (Lentinula edodes) blocks typically produce 2–3 productive flushes before yields drop to impractical levels. The first flush is usually the largest. The second flush, following a 10–21 day rest period and a rehydration soak, is generally smaller. A third flush is possible but significantly reduced. Blocks that were damaged at harvest through twisting rather than cutting often produce poor or absent second flushes because substrate pulled from the block surface creates craters that pool moisture and invite contamination. To maximize flush count, always cut shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms cleanly at the stem base, allow the block to surface-dry slightly during the rest period, and rehydrate with a full cold-water soak before re-triggering.

Q. What is the difference between shiitake WR 50–75F and cold-weather shiitake strains for indoor mushroom cultivation?

A. Shiitake mushroom (Lentinula edodes) strains fall into three broad temperature categories. Cold-weather (CW) strains fruit best at 40–60°F and may not pin reliably in rooms that stay above 65°F. Warm-weather (WW) strains fruit readily at 60–80°F but perform poorly in cool conditions. The WR 50–75F strain is a wide-range shiitake that produces across a 50–75°F fruiting band, making it the most flexible option for indoor mushroom cultivation in standard home or garage environments that do not maintain precise temperature control. Most home growers who cannot hold a room consistently below 60°F or above 70°F benefit most from the Shiitake WR 50–75F strain. For mushroom cultivation in a dedicated cool grow room or in naturally cold spaces during winter, a cold-weather strain may produce faster pin sets at its preferred lower temperature range.

Q. How should I store fresh shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms after harvest?

A. Fresh Shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) are best stored unwashed in a paper bag or loosely wrapped in paper towel in the refrigerator at 34–39°F. Avoid sealed plastic bags, which trap moisture and speed decomposition. Under proper cold storage conditions, fresh shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms remain in good condition for 7–14 days. For longer preservation, shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms can be dried using a food dehydrator or oven set to 100–125°F for approximately 24 hours until fully desiccated and brittle. Cool dried shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms for at least one hour before sealing in an airtight container. Dried shiitake WR 50–75F mushrooms store well at room temperature for several months when kept away from light and moisture.